36 Hours In Kabul

Kabul was once hailed as the Paris of Central Asia. In the 1970s, women roamed freely in knee-length skirts and hippies trekked through the mountains on their way to India to experiment with the local opium plants. Afghanistan was consumed by music and art: poets would relish in the local cafes, drinking tea as they wrote the next Sufi revelation. Today, Kabul is neither the fun-loving European sister nor the demonized city described by international media. Through thirty years of destruction and deprivation, Kabul has maintained its culture of warm hospitality, music and art. The locals are proud people, dedicated to the growth of their country; they are mostly welcoming of foreigners and eager to share the beauty of their country. 

Thursday 7 p.m.

1)      Ex-Pat Living

Rumored to be one of the safest locations in Kabul, Boccaccio Restaurant is located on the International Forces Compound in the center of the city. This Italian restaurant is the hot spot for expatriate international celebrities, from the British Ambassador to the head of USAID. Generally, Thursdays nights bring in less business and more of a casual crowd: young professionals from all over the world chattering away in multiple languages about politics, religion, and the best gynecologist to visit in Dubai. Don’t expect dinner here to be any cheaper than in a typical U.S. city – wine is about $7 a glass and entrees range from $12 - $22 USD. All restaurants are cash only, and will accept both Afghanis and US Dollars.

9 p.m.

2)      I see France

Following dinner at Boccaccio, head to L’Atmo for drinks about ten minutes away. This French joint has been closed down numerous times for standard alcohol violations in the past couple of years, but always manages to open under a different name. Get there by 9 p.m. in order to secure a spot outside on one of the wicker chairs, close to the fire pit. If you’re lucky, the popular ex-pat punk rock band Khyber Zoo will be playing a set or two by the outdoor pool.

Friday 7 a.m.

3)      Tea-Time

Get up early to golf at the foot of the Hindu Kush Mountains. About ninety minutes outside the city, Kabul Golf Course is a popular spot on the weekends.  At $50 a head, this course is frequented by U.S. Soldiers and Department of Defense contractors in addition to locals who can afford the fee. Since there is no “green”, local caddies will talk you through the rough in order to get the most out of the experience. It is customary to stay for a cup of tea after you’re done with eighteen holes. Be sure to visit the gift shop for those who won’t believe that you golfed in Kabul.

12 p.m.

4)      Clothing Mandatory

Since golfing is restricted to men-only, send the ladies ahead to Lake Qargha to secure a beach side cabana; the Lake is only a short drive up the mountain from the golf course. Here, you can watch the children play on the playgrounds, frolic in the cold lake water or simply sip banana shakes and eat a leisurely lunch. You definitely want to leave your two-piece bathing suit at home. Similar to the dress code in Kabul, women generally wear long-sleeved tunic shirts and long pants. Expect especially slow service if there are a group of local men nearby – they always get served first, no matter what.

4 p.m.

5)      Ahoy Matey

Nezar DVD is pirated DVDs at its best. Visit the shop on Street #13 in Wazir Akbar Khan on your way back from Qargha and you will be delighted by the selection. They have box sets of every series from CSI to King of Queens, Lost to Seinfeld. And they know their market; Seinfeld: The Complete Series retails for $250 USD on Amazon.com, but comedy fans can shell out a mere $25 in Kabul. New releases and movies still in theaters are available at $1 USD each.

7 p.m.

6)      Burgers and Buns

Right around the corner from Nezar DVD on Wazir Akbar Khan Street is Fat Man Forest. Here you can get a delicious cheeseburger, or an even better chicken burger, with all of the American fixings. After the abrupt closing of Habibi’s, the famed burger place that was allegedly serving up women alongside the food, this is the next best thing. Ask for extra pickles on the side.

Saturday 9 a.m.

7)      Let’s do Brunch

You can’t drink a mimosa, but it is definitely brunch. Saturday morning brunch at Café Zarnegar in the Serena Hotel is the place to go in order to see and be seen. It is also interesting to note that it is the only place in Kabul that serves brunch. The chefs behind the counter will whip you up an egg white omelet or French toast with whipped cream and fresh fruit. Catch up on gossip with your friends before hitting the streets for some shopping.

11 a.m.

8)      Chicken Street

There is no better way to describe the popular shopping district in Kabul. And as far as I know, there is no Dari or Pashto translation for it. Locals and ex-pats alike call this area of the city, “Chicken Street.” On Chicken Street (and its intersecting alleys), you can get anything Afghan your heart desires. Scarves, beaded jewelry, hand painted bowls, plastic trash cans, flowers and scratch cards for your phone.

Ask to be pointed in the direction of Ishtaf Furniture Gallery -- he has the most exquisite hand carved furniture that would retail for thousands of dollars in the U.S. Don’t be scared if the owner leads you next door to the adjoining carpet store, offers you a hot cup of tea and a seat on the ground, and opens dozens of Afghan-made carpets in front of you.  This is standard Afghan hospitality.

1 p.m.

9)   Boutique Shopping

If you’re not brave enough to tackle the bustling streets of Kabul, head to ex-pat only Zardozy Boutiques in Qalai Fatullah. Zardozy brings together local designers and furniture makers to give you the best selection of Afghan hand-crafted shopping. At Zardozy, you can browse through hand-woven scarves and table clothes from Nuristan, try on handcrafted turquoise necklaces and earrings from Panshir, or pick up an American Apparel printed T-Shirt saying “Born to Ride: Kabul” with a man playing the national sport, Buzkashi. (Buzkashi is a game comparable to Polo, whereby men on horses attempt to score points by passing around a goat carcass.) Zardozy is perfect for the casual shopper, but be warned that you will be paying ex-pat prices.

IF YOU GO

Serena Hotel is located in the heart of Kabul, only 20 minutes from the airport. Following a small scare a couple of years ago, the hotel has amplified the security is now one of the safest locations in the city. In addition to the popular brunch, The Silk Route Restaurant also offers a barbecue dinner served outside in the courtyard. Hotel amenities include a spa, fitness center, conference rooms and full business center.  Doubles start at $356 USD.

Intercontinental is a good pick for the traveler on a budget. Double rooms here are on average $135 USD but the hotel is located a little further outside of the city and doesn’t offer any notable facilities.