36 Hours In Kabul

Kabul was once hailed as the Paris of Central Asia. In the 1970s, women roamed freely in knee-length skirts and hippies trekked through the mountains on their way to India to experiment with the local opium plants. Afghanistan was consumed by music and art: poets would relish in the local cafes, drinking tea as they wrote the next Sufi revelation. Today, Kabul is neither the fun-loving European sister nor the demonized city described by international media. Through thirty years of destruction and deprivation, Kabul has maintained its culture of warm hospitality, music and art. The locals are proud people, dedicated to the growth of their country; they are mostly welcoming of foreigners and eager to share the beauty of their country. 

Thursday 7 p.m.

1)      Ex-Pat Living

Rumored to be one of the safest locations in Kabul, Boccaccio Restaurant is located on the International Forces Compound in the center of the city. This Italian restaurant is the hot spot for expatriate international celebrities, from the British Ambassador to the head of USAID. Generally, Thursdays nights bring in less business and more of a casual crowd: young professionals from all over the world chattering away in multiple languages about politics, religion, and the best gynecologist to visit in Dubai. Don’t expect dinner here to be any cheaper than in a typical U.S. city – wine is about $7 a glass and entrees range from $12 - $22 USD. All restaurants are cash only, and will accept both Afghanis and US Dollars.

9 p.m.

2)      I see France

Following dinner at Boccaccio, head to L’Atmo for drinks about ten minutes away. This French joint has been closed down numerous times for standard alcohol violations in the past couple of years, but always manages to open under a different name. Get there by 9 p.m. in order to secure a spot outside on one of the wicker chairs, close to the fire pit. If you’re lucky, the popular ex-pat punk rock band Khyber Zoo will be playing a set or two by the outdoor pool.

Friday 7 a.m.

3)      Tea-Time

Get up early to golf at the foot of the Hindu Kush Mountains. About ninety minutes outside the city, Kabul Golf Course is a popular spot on the weekends.  At $50 a head, this course is frequented by U.S. Soldiers and Department of Defense contractors in addition to locals who can afford the fee. Since there is no “green”, local caddies will talk you through the rough in order to get the most out of the experience. It is customary to stay for a cup of tea after you’re done with eighteen holes. Be sure to visit the gift shop for those who won’t believe that you golfed in Kabul.

12 p.m.

4)      Clothing Mandatory

Since golfing is restricted to men-only, send the ladies ahead to Lake Qargha to secure a beach side cabana; the Lake is only a short drive up the mountain from the golf course. Here, you can watch the children play on the playgrounds, frolic in the cold lake water or simply sip banana shakes and eat a leisurely lunch. You definitely want to leave your two-piece bathing suit at home. Similar to the dress code in Kabul, women generally wear long-sleeved tunic shirts and long pants. Expect especially slow service if there are a group of local men nearby – they always get served first, no matter what.

4 p.m.

5)      Ahoy Matey

Nezar DVD is pirated DVDs at its best. Visit the shop on Street #13 in Wazir Akbar Khan on your way back from Qargha and you will be delighted by the selection. They have box sets of every series from CSI to King of Queens, Lost to Seinfeld. And they know their market; Seinfeld: The Complete Series retails for $250 USD on Amazon.com, but comedy fans can shell out a mere $25 in Kabul. New releases and movies still in theaters are available at $1 USD each.

7 p.m.

6)      Burgers and Buns

Right around the corner from Nezar DVD on Wazir Akbar Khan Street is Fat Man Forest. Here you can get a delicious cheeseburger, or an even better chicken burger, with all of the American fixings. After the abrupt closing of Habibi’s, the famed burger place that was allegedly serving up women alongside the food, this is the next best thing. Ask for extra pickles on the side.

Saturday 9 a.m.

7)      Let’s do Brunch

You can’t drink a mimosa, but it is definitely brunch. Saturday morning brunch at Café Zarnegar in the Serena Hotel is the place to go in order to see and be seen. It is also interesting to note that it is the only place in Kabul that serves brunch. The chefs behind the counter will whip you up an egg white omelet or French toast with whipped cream and fresh fruit. Catch up on gossip with your friends before hitting the streets for some shopping.

11 a.m.

8)      Chicken Street

There is no better way to describe the popular shopping district in Kabul. And as far as I know, there is no Dari or Pashto translation for it. Locals and ex-pats alike call this area of the city, “Chicken Street.” On Chicken Street (and its intersecting alleys), you can get anything Afghan your heart desires. Scarves, beaded jewelry, hand painted bowls, plastic trash cans, flowers and scratch cards for your phone.

Ask to be pointed in the direction of Ishtaf Furniture Gallery -- he has the most exquisite hand carved furniture that would retail for thousands of dollars in the U.S. Don’t be scared if the owner leads you next door to the adjoining carpet store, offers you a hot cup of tea and a seat on the ground, and opens dozens of Afghan-made carpets in front of you.  This is standard Afghan hospitality.

1 p.m.

9)   Boutique Shopping

If you’re not brave enough to tackle the bustling streets of Kabul, head to ex-pat only Zardozy Boutiques in Qalai Fatullah. Zardozy brings together local designers and furniture makers to give you the best selection of Afghan hand-crafted shopping. At Zardozy, you can browse through hand-woven scarves and table clothes from Nuristan, try on handcrafted turquoise necklaces and earrings from Panshir, or pick up an American Apparel printed T-Shirt saying “Born to Ride: Kabul” with a man playing the national sport, Buzkashi. (Buzkashi is a game comparable to Polo, whereby men on horses attempt to score points by passing around a goat carcass.) Zardozy is perfect for the casual shopper, but be warned that you will be paying ex-pat prices.

IF YOU GO

Serena Hotel is located in the heart of Kabul, only 20 minutes from the airport. Following a small scare a couple of years ago, the hotel has amplified the security is now one of the safest locations in the city. In addition to the popular brunch, The Silk Route Restaurant also offers a barbecue dinner served outside in the courtyard. Hotel amenities include a spa, fitness center, conference rooms and full business center.  Doubles start at $356 USD.

Intercontinental is a good pick for the traveler on a budget. Double rooms here are on average $135 USD but the hotel is located a little further outside of the city and doesn’t offer any notable facilities.

Powered by Roshan Community

I arrived back in Kabul a few days ago, and things are back to work as usual. My first home leave was relaxing - filled with lots of sleep, Starbucks coffee and extremely fattening deserts. Now, I am well-rested and ready for the second quarter of this year-long experience.

On Sunday, Roshan hosted the opening ceremonies for a Youth, Sports and Social Development Center that was built by Roshan Community, our social programs arm. One of the projects I inherited when I first arrived was the branding of this building. The center was designed to fill the need of Afghan youth, who are increasingly becoming more involved in sports. (Some of you may recall the Afghan weightlighter who took Bronze at the Beijing Olympics...no? Maybe not.) He serves as inspiration for these kids, who love to play volleyball, basketball, cricket, wrestling and tae kwon do.

Youth, Sports and Social Development Center Pre-Branding

This facility provides separate areas for girls and boys to enjoy indoor sporting activities, intellectually stimulating board games and access to technology. The hope is that this center will offer girls the opportunity to participate in organized sports in a safe and protected environment, something that is currently lacking in Afghanistan. The center aims to be a focal point in the community helping to build a strong sense of community and responsibility for the youth.

Post-Branding

Below are some pictures from the opening ceremony, attended by almost 600 people, including embassy officials from USA, Canada and Denmark, as well as NATO and ISAF media. We also had a short procession of athletes -- they were so excited about showing off their uniforms and the opening of the center, the energy was contagious. We were even treated to a short tae kwon do routine by the resident expert.

The event was extremely successful, despite some challenges in the planning process. Today, I recognized one of my colleagues as an athlete who walked in the procession with the basketball team. After a short discussion, we realized that he is still learning how to play the game, and his team is not yet fully formed. So, Joel offered to be their coach; they exchanged phone numbers and agreed to start training in the spring.

The center seems to be bringing people together already.

Let me tell you about the time I moved to Afghanistan

For the past four months, I have been living in Kabul on a compound with strict security protocol and a curfew. I cover my head when I’m in public and travel with a personal guard. Along with eighty other expats, I am driven to and from work each day in an inconspicuous van and followed by an Emergency Response Unit.  Men refuse to shake my hand, but hug and kiss other men. I am sometimes considered a second-tier citizen, and am constantly stared at.

I left my job at JWT New York because I was looking for professional growth on client side marketing, exposure to senior level decision-making and experience with emerging markets and culturally appropriate advertising. Personally, I was excited to live abroad, save some money, meet extremely diverse and interesting people and travel the world while having this amazing experience. I was up for the challenge.

ISAF forces on daily patrol in Kabul

My job at Roshan is unbelievably challenging and enormously rewarding. I interact with local Afghan staff on a daily basis; over tea, we discuss their families, their homes, their weddings, their holidays, their hopes and aspirations. I try to help women overcome their diffidence, push young professionals to think outside the constraints defined by societal values, and encourage local staff to take on individual accountability – something that is unfamiliar in a post-communist, post-Taliban era. The experience is unparalleled: I have had the opportunity travel to ISAF-run Bagram Air Field and meet with U.S. Majors in charge of Public Affairs in an attempt to get advertising up on the base. I participate in meetings with USAID officials to help educate international embassies about the benefits of mobile money transfers.Through Roshan social programs, I have helped to brand fresh water wells in remote regions, install solar panels for basic living infrastructure, and touch the lives of women and children who are fed and clothed at Roshan-sponsored soup kitchens and orphanages.

Orphanage outside of Kabul

Gandamak Restaurant and Pub

I live and work with my colleagues and my new friends from India, Canada, Croatia, Poland, Australia, Bosnia, the United States and Ireland, in addition to Afghanistan. We hold meetings in the compound after work, followed by a glass of wine. On Sunday evenings, we play cards and we cook dinner in someone’s room. We go out to restaurants and bars on the weekend, where I am introduced to Swedish aid workers and British war photographers. For Thanksgiving, I searched the city for turkeys and ended up inviting sixteen friends to share the meal. We turned it into a potluck and the menu included stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, sweet potatoes, green beans apple crumpets and pumpkin pie. Our Facilities Director from New York, excited about the celebration away from home, set table cloths, lit candles and hosted a cocktail hour.

Thanksgiving in Kabul

My friends have become my family. On a good day, we celebrate with homemade rahkia from Eastern Europe and cheese from Dubai. On bad day, we commiserate with stories of how frustrating it is to be locked up and how terrible the compound food is. And honestly, the bad days are bad. Working within the constraints of the language barrier, bureaucratic process, constant mentoring/teaching structure and security restrictions can be exhausting. But we all see the difference we are making - the impact is palpable. Despite the frustration, we are a part of the reconstruction of a country plagued by thirty years of destruction, and we watch as our colleagues learn from us every day. Roshan, after all, means hope in Dari.